Home   Product Search   Site Map   Checkout   Track Your Order
Tree Stuff
  1. Pole Saw Selection & Purchase
    If your property needs maintenance work, a tree pole saw is an essential tool to have around your household. This is especially true to avoid trees’ from becoming a hazard, so investing in basic tools such as this type of a saw is recommended.

    But as you will realize, there are some things you need to think about first before you can decide which models of tree pole saws will fulfill your specific requirements. Buying a pole saw is not a simple matter and if you want to get the most out of the cost you are about to spend, you have to be smart with your choices and you have to make the right pick. With this said, here are a few reminders that may help you pick the most suitable one.

    First and foremost, you need to understand that it would not matter much if you get the type with the highest ratings on reviews if it is not the one you need. So, when you are to make a decision, we ask you to look at your specific purpose and needs and match a saw with those needs. A manual pole saw may be the best option for you. Manual saws usually have higher reach capability keeping you off the ladder so it is also essential that you are mindful with the kinds of trees that require the trimming.
    Choose a pole saw based on:
    If you are planning on a do it yourself work on your property, it is better to stick with the lightweight types. Using the tree pole saw will require you to lift it and although it is only for a limited time, it can cut on your work efficiency if you can get tired by simply lifting the tool because of its heaviness. If you want easy handling, a heavy tool is not at all recommended
    Most manual pole saws are lightweight, less expensive and easier to handle and maintain. There are fiberglass and aluminum models on the market, most are usually telescopic in nature, and they are prone to collapse and excessively bending during use.
    A new design of interlocking modular consistent diameter poles solves bending, collapse, warping, twisting and cracking. The 29ft from tip to tip ATSS PSS30 has been a dream for homeowners who have used and rated it. Consider going green.

    Choose the right provider.
    Finally, it is essential that you buy from a credible source offering quality tree pruning equipment. For your tree pole saw requirements, you may want to check out our reputable online source of high quality long pole saws and long pruner loppers for your pruning needs. And the last essential is in making sure that you select one worth investing in. www.AmericanTreeServiceSupply.com/products
  2. At American Tree Service Supply we are very concerned about user safety during tree pruning activities. Our site has links directing users to safety sites and OSHA regulations and we decided to shy away from selling both electric and gas chainsaws which maim people far to often.
    We compiled the following information of the stats.

    ·         Each year in the US there are over 30,000 gas and electric chainsaw related injuries, some of which are catastrophic.
    ·         More than a quarter of the chainsaw-related injuries that occur in the US each year are the result of ‘kickback.’  This occurs when the tip of the guide bar comes in contact with a solid object and jerks upward suddenly. 1
    ·         Kickbacks can cause injuries to the neck, shoulder, face, and hand. Just this month pro

    ·         36% of chainsaw injuries affect the legs and knees. 2 
    ·         31,000 people were treated in the hospital emergency departments in 2012 for chainsaw injuries. 3
    ·         The average injury required 110 stiches. 4
    ·         The medical costs for these injuries amount to over $350 million each year.5
    ·         You should NEVER cut with a chainsaw from a ladder, as the branch you are cutting may fall and hit the ladder, causing you to lose your balance and resulting in serious injury.  In its 2013 report the Tree Care Industry Association reported that there were 158 occupational tree care accidents6         
    ·         Most chainsaw accidents occur because the operator is either inexperienced and therefore not using the tool correctly, or he simply cannot handle the chain saw because it is above his skill level.  Poor judgment also contributes to accidents.  7
    ·         Many chainsaw users fail to wear the required personal protective equipment (PPE) such as leg chaps and knee pads that are designed to protect the legs.
     1  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15027558
    2  US Consumer Product Safety Commission
    3  Centers for Disease Control and Prevention Report
    4  US Consumer Product Safety Commission – NEISS Report - 2012
    5  US Consumer Product Safety Commission
    6    http://tcia.org/news/safety/occupational-tree-care-accidents-2013 b
    Here are a few of the chainsaw related injuries that made headlines across the US in the last few years:
    A man FELL ON A CHAINSAW he was using seriously injuring himself, and air care had to be called in to assist.  -  Clermont County, Ohio. 1 
    A man INJURED HIS HAND in a CHAINSAW ACCIDENT.  - Dennis,Massachusetts2
    A landscaper in Ross Township, Pennsylvania was lucky to survive after a CHAINSAW SLICED 2 INCHES DEEP INTO HIS NECK AND SHOULDER after the chain saw suddenly kicked back. 3
    A man was injured in Raleigh, North Carolina while using an ELECTRIC CHAINSAW to trim a tree outside his home. 4
    These accidents are not limited to the US alone in December 2011 a man in the UK accidentally severed an artery in his throat with a chain saw and bled to death. 5
     Reported on Local 12, WKRC Cincinnati, June 12, 2014
    ‘Cape Wide News’ – 95 WTX News Radio. June 01, 2014
    Pittsburgh Post-Gazette, April 01, 2014
    4 WRAL TV5, December 28, 2013
    5  http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/family-see-dad-die-in-horror-188409.
  3. Greetings and welcome to our blog
    Out take on Extended Reach Pole Saws
    If you have some mature trees in your yard that need pruning, you are probably going to need an extend reach pole saw for the job. Some of these pole saws have a reach of up to 33 feet or more. This can make pruning a snap, especially when you have to tackle those hard-to-reach hardwood and softwood branches without a ladder.
    Why would you need an extended reach pole saw?
    The extra height capability can be quite handy when you have to remove limbs more than 20 feet above ground. Now you can cut those branches without strain by using an ATSS extended reach pole saw.
    If you have this pole saw at your home then you don’t have to call in the professionals and you can do it when you want it done. Best of all you don’t need a ladder, and you don’t have to climb to dangerous heights, because you can do it all from the ground. 
    Buying Tips
    Always buy a quality tool. Buy one that is durable and will give you the best value in the long run. Cheap pole saws produce cheap results. We suggest that you don't select a pole saw just because it’s the cheapest one you can find. If you have some mature hardwoods in your yard that need pruning, you are probably going to need an extend reach pole saw for the job. Some of these pole saws have a reach of up to 33 feet or more. This can make pruning a snap, especially when you have to tackle those hard-to-reach hardwood and softwood branches without a ladder. The extra height capability can be quite handy when you have to remove limbs more than 20 feet above ground. Now you can cut those branches without strain, using an ATSS extended reach pole saw. If you have this pole saw at your home then you don’t have to call in the professionals. Best of all you don’t need a ladder, and you don’t have to climb to dangerous heights, because you can do it all from the ground. 
    Select the tool that has the reach you need, so that you can get to those ‘unreachable’ branches from the ground. Using pole saws on ladders is best not attempted. Our pole saw systems reach from 6-33' feet or more. 
    Choose a lightweight variety that’s not too heavy when extended. So if you have a lot of trees to prune you can use it for hours, with just a few small rest stops in between.
    Make sure that the blade is fast and efficient and made of high quality steel. It should also be capable of making the cuts you need, with minimal effort. A sharp blade should be able to easily trim branches 5 to 6 inches in diameter.
    You always want to choose an extended pole saw that is strong and has interlocking poles, as these won’t flex or bend a lot, and they also won’t collapse while you’re pruning. Interlocking poles enhance the structural rigidity of the pole saw, so that it remains solid and sturdy when extended.
    Any arborist will tell you that you that having the right tools is the key to successful pruning. A big part of that is choosing an extended reach pole saw that does the work for you, so you don’t have to work hard at cutting

    Select the tool that has the reach you need, so that you can get to those ‘unreachable’ branches from the ground.

    Choose a lightweight variety that’s not too heavy when extended. So if you have a lot of trees to prune you can use it for hours, with just a few small rest stops in between.
    Make sure that the blade is fast and efficient and made of high quality steel. It should also be capable of making the cuts you need, with minimal effort. A sharp blade should be able to easily trim branches 5 to 6 inches in diameter.
    You always want to choose an extended pole saw that is strong and has interlocking poles, as these won’t flex or bend a lot, and they also won’t collapse while you’re pruning. Interlocking poles enhance the structural rigidity of the pole saw, so that it remains solid and sturdy when extended.
    Any arborist will tell you that you that having the right tools is the key to successful pruning. A big part of that is choosing an extended reach pole saw that does the work for you, so you don’t have to work hard at cutting.

    We are here to answer any questions live at 877-208-9548 or via EMAIL We look forward to hearing from you. 
    The staff at ATSS

  4. Stephen, Just a note to say thanks for the wonderful service. Got both packages and everything looks great. I will be using it this weekend
    to improve our lake view. Thanks Again, Dan
    Hi Steve, Thanks very much for the quality product and the excellent customer service! Mike G.
    Steve, Thanks for the fas delivery. Both pruning heads work great. Tim R.
  5. Online Seminars for Municipal Arborists is a website founded by Len Phillips, ASLA Emeritus and Honorary Life Member of the SMA. Len has been providing online seminars for certified arborists and foresters seeking ISA and SAF credit since 2005.
    The site was designed to offer continuing education (CE)  opportunities to landscape architects and related fields looking to improve their knowledge and skills while fulfilling professional CE requirements to maintain valid registration / certification.  We hope you find it to be a valuable professional tool easing the process of earning education credits. We hope you find it to be a valuable professional tool easing the process of earning education credits. 
  6. Dangers of gas & electric chainsaws vs manual pole saw equipment.
    Authored By Steve Garner Owner of American Tree Service Supply
    If you are not experienced using chainsaws, then it may be best to stick with a manual pole saw for your gardening trimming and pruning. Simply put, gas and electric chainsaws can be dangerous. Chainsaw related injuries often occur due to improper handling of the tool, so if you are not an experienced handler then beware. We have published a new page on our site “Did you know” which provides the most recent injury data available.
    Our take on the situation:
    Gas-powered chainsaws are very powerful, and offer greater mobility than the electric chainsaws and are very efficient and fast. Advantage: These chainsaws can make light and quick work of some tasks, such as getting rid of large damaged tree limbs. Disadvantage: Limited user height unless you risk climbing. They produce CO2 and usually include costly maintenance plus fuel to run and fuel to obtain more.
    Electric chainsaws are available in cordless and corded varieties. They are lighter and require less maintenance than their gas-powered counterparts. They are typically used for light trimming, as well as pruning. Advantage: Plug and play until you burn it out and that can take a longtime. Disadvantage: Limited in user reach and purchase of correct extension cords may be necessary. Popping fuses is no fun.
    Maintenance also lubricating oils are required over the long haul.
    Additional considerations:
    Chainsaw kickback: This is one of the problems that you can have with a gas, and to a lesser extent the electric chainsaw. When using a chainsaw you should never cut the tree branch or trunk with the tip. If you make the mistake of cutting with the tip then this can cause kickback. This occurs when the tip of the chainsaw comes in contact with the tree trunk, causing the chainsaw to suddenly leap upwards in your direction, and cause serious injury. It is therefore important that the tip of the chainsaw never touches the tree during pruning.
    Tangled power cords: Electric chainsaws have long power cords (often as long as 100 feet), and these can get in the way as sometimes you get tangled in the cord or it sometimes ends up somewhere in the tree. So when operating the chainsaw you need to be aware of where the cord is, and ensure that it doesn’t get tangled while you’re cutting away.
    It is important to be aware of the dangers of gas and electric chain saws vs a manual pole saw. Regardless of the type of saw you select, make certain that you are adequately protected with regulation headgear, safety glasses and work gloves to protect your hands.
    As ladders also pose a significant risk to your health and wellbeing, AmericanTreeServiceSupply.com has engineered an ultra-lightweight manual saw system(s) capable of reaching 33’ or more. Contact information is on the site and we welcome your questions and/or response.
    In Conclusion: Manual pole saws are very productive tools, better for the environment and have a relatively low cost of long term ownership. Manual pole saws are ideal for most of the trimming and pruning jobs that the homeowner and landscape professional user will need to cut through.

  7. Tools for pruning and basic tool care
    If you’ve decided to take on a gardening DIY project and prune the trees in your yard, there are a few key tools you need in your arsenal. Here are a few of them.
    Pole saws are a definite must have. They are available in different lengths, but the length you need obviously depends on the height of the trees in your yard. If you have some really tall oak trees then standing on a ladder is not an option, so you need to invest in a top-quality long reach pole saw. You can use it to get to those hard-to-reach branches.
    Secateurs are the right choice for pruning flowering shrubs. There is nothing quite like the burst of color you get from spring shrubs like lilac and roses, and proper pruning will help to ensure that you get to see those gorgeous blooms reappear next year. These beauties should be pruned immediately after the flowers fade.
    Hedge Shears are helpful for keeping those evergreen hedges in check. A hedge can make your garden look really smart, but it’s never a good idea to let it go too long without giving it a good pruning. Shears should be sharp and well-oiled, because you don’t want to end up with jagged edges.  
    Tree saws can take care of those really large branches of your oak and apple trees. If you have trees with branches over 2” in diameter and larger, then these are best tackled with a tree saw.
    Tips for Tool Care
    If you want to have good results from your pruning efforts, then you need to take care of your tools. Most DIY gardeners are happy to use their tools to snip, cut, and shear during pruning season, but after that they toss them aside until next time. These tools can last you a long time, IF, you take a few simple steps to care them.
    ·         Rust is the chief enemy of your pruning tools, and it’s most likely to attack if you’re in a high-humidity location. So it’s important to keep tools clean. Be sure to remove all sap and residue from your tree pole saw, secateur, and tree saw. You can then sanitize with household bleach or 70% denatured alcohol.
    ·         Sharpen the blades. You can sharpen blades with a whetstone and/or file. Sharp tools give you a cleaner cut, and this is a lot healthier for your plants.
    ·         Oil the blades and the joint of your hedge shears and pole saw after each use, as this will help to keep them snip ready. 

  8. Tips for Getting Trees in Snip Shape
    When you prune your trees is just as important as how you prune them, and the tools you use. Pruning is important to the health and stability of your trees, so you want to ensure that you get it done right.
    Here a few tree pruning tips to help you get started.
    Don’t prune trees unnecessarily. Pruning season may be around the corner, but remember that trees should be pruned and trimmed only if needed.  Conifers for example need very little pruning, and most of them do not have the capacity to regrow from old wood. Pines are coniferous evergreens that should be pruned to maintain their natural beauty, by cutting off the candles. Pole saws are useful tools for pruning lower branches.
    Do use the proper technique. Before you use that brand new tree saw you just bought make sure that you are very clear on what you want to accomplish. The goal should be to get rid of unwanted branches, while protecting the trunk of the tree. That’s why proper technique is important. For example, interior branches should generally be left intact. Removing this canopy cover (known as lion tailing), will cause branches to break easily and weaken the tree. Improper pruning can undermine the health of your tree.
    Don’t prune at the wrong time. While you are safe pruning maples almost any-time of the year, it’s not the same with oaks. It’s generally best not to prune oak trees during the spring. During these months (February through May) the beetles are very active, and they are the culprits that spread the fungus that causes oak wilt.  If you prune during this time then the sap from the oak tree will attract the beetles, and this may cause the fungus to penetrate the tree. November through January is the recommended pruning time for oaks.
    Do use the right tools. Make sure to use tools that have a sharp blade and give a good cut. If you invest in a pruning shear, a pole saw with a good range, and a top quality tree saw, then these can handle most jobs.  If you have large branches to remove then use multiple cuts like a 3-point cut, in order to prevent any damage. You also want to make clean cuts and not tear the bark or make jagged wounds. Avoid using tools that are dull and dirty.
  9. Three important ‘P’s of Tree Care
    Good soil, water, sunlight and air are all needed if trees are going to thrive and remain healthy. But it doesn’t stop there, regular pruning with high quality tools like a pole saw is also important. In addition to pruning, trees should be properly planted and protected. That takes care of 3 of the most important ‘P’s of tree care.
    If you plant a lovely tree in the wrong place it may never flourish. So the first thing you need to get right is the planting site. Trees should be planted in areas with good drainage and the right environment, so that means avoiding spots where they will be vulnerable to icy winter winds or severe summer heat. Newly planted trees should be mulched and watered to encourage growth, and mature trees should be trimmed and treated as needed.
    Pruning is also important to tree health. Cutting back your trees regularly eliminates dead and diseased branches that can attract insects and other harmful organisms. It also improves growth and strengthens the structure. Sometimes trees also need pruning for safety reasons, but if the branches are near a utility line, then be sure to call in the power company.
    ·         Tools: There are specific tools and techniques that are central to proper pruning. Some of the preferred tools include the long pole saw, tree saw, hedge shears, and secateur.
    ·         Techniques: Crown thinning is a common technique used to remove stems and branches that may be inhibiting light penetration. Crown raising refers to the removal of the lower branches of the tree, and crown reduction involves cutting back long limbs.
    Trees also need to be protected, especially from things like root damage, disease, and extreme weather. It is advisable to minimize the amount of digging or trenching that’s done near the root of the tree, in order to prevent any damage to the root zone. 
    ·         It is also necessary to inspect and treat your trees regularly. That’s the best way to catch potential hazards such as insects and diseases early. Cutting away diseased branches with your tree saw will also help.
    ·         Summer and winter can also be hard on your trees. In the summer you may need to water your trees more than usual. Young trees in particular are susceptible to stress due to the intense heat and hot winds.  In the winter, trees can be affected by winter burn and sun scald. You may need to wrap the trunk of your trees to protect them.
  10. So spring is getting closer by the day. Most homeowners are now confronted with cleaning up the tree damage from this years brutal winter. One way to reduce cost is to consider doing the job yourself and purchase a pole saw or pole prunner from us. (we have plenty of "how to" advice so browse the site for what you need) Our systems reach from 6' to 33' or more! We are running a limited time offer of one free pole on most aluminum 1-3/4" diameter systems. Check out the product details. You'll be glad you did!
  11. Was talking with a client who wanted to know if a squirrel stripping the bark off his tree might kill it. The simple answer is yes indeed. A secondary issue of importance is pathogens that may be active in the area. As I am not a squirrel expert, it is best to leave this subject to some pros.

    Squirrel Damage Management-University of Nebraska-Lincoln. The following is an excerpt:

    Prevent Bark Stripping, Twig Clipping, and Territorial Marking
    Squirrels typically strip bark during winter and spring. Deciduous trees with smooth bark sustain the most damage, but other trees can be targeted. Twig clipping occurs most frequently in spring and early fall. Fortunately, trees can sustain damage up to 50 percent of the trunk’s circumference and foliage losses up to 30 percent without significant impacts. Landowners can prevent damage to trees by installing metal collars as described above. Polybutene-based repellents can also help prevent access of squirrels to trees or branches. Protect the tree from the petroleum-based repellent by applying a plastic barrier between the tree surface and the repellent. Follow label instructions.
    Occasionally, tree squirrels will gnaw on structures, decks, porches, fences, and other objects that do not provide nutrition, moisture, or housing needs. It is believed that this type of damage is a byproduct of territorial marking. If a physical barrier, such as metal flashing is not an option, then commercial repellents can be effective. Apply the repellent on the marks and to a 12-inch radius around it. Repeat as necessary. If the impact to trees or structures is significant, remove offending squirrels by cage trapping or shooting.

    Anybody have a topic they would like to discuss?

  12. So, here it is mid March and the thoughts of spring cleanup are becoming more frequent. After a very harsh winter season, many a homeowner has a good idea of the work ahead and may be aware of tree damage that needs tending to. We have a number of posts, some offering best practices as to the who, what, where, when and why now topics.
    Simply scroll to your desired topic below.

    There is one topic frequently asked is:
    How can I repair a large area of bark stripped off a tree?
    A: You will need a very shape knife (large probably) for cutting the bark back. Wear cut resistant leather gloves, yes? You want to cut back to where the bark is attached to the wood below and leave it alone. If the tree is otherwise healthy, it will begin healing itself by producing callus tissue that will roll over the open, stripped area in the next few years. Trees have better defensive mechanisms than most people realize. The wound should not be treated with paint, emulsions or wound dressings, as coatings trap moisture against the bark and wood, encouraging decay. Historically, it was sometimes recommended to scribe a wound on a tree or cut the bark around the wound to achieve an elliptical shape, but this is no longer widely recommended and it is better minimizing the amount of healthy tissue removed.
    Research your good intentions so as to prevent wrong action(s). Don't totally inhibit the proper healing of your trees.
    In the mean time, while dormant, it a good idea to trim the pines now and let the Maples run until the sap stoppes running. All else is fair game. Get em down!
    If you are in the market for outstanding high quality tree tools, visit us at: www.AmericanTreeServiceSupply.com

    Back soon to discuss squirrels next week. 
  13. Hi Steve, Here are a few pictures that I have been sharing with friends and family. I have had all the poles stacked to 36ft and there is remarkably little effort involved in sawing, though I do have to consider where the poles might go after I have completed the cut. The pic of the saw blade and cut end is actually a pin oak limb cut at about 30ft. The oak is hard, but the sawing is easy. The last 2 pics are the pin oak before and after limbing up. The pruning that I have done on my black walnut and pin oak has saved me $500 that I was quoted by my tree guy. Thanks for a great product. Alan K. NJ
  14. This is a follow up to an earlier e-mail I sent regarding the pole saw pruner & lopper combo I purchased from your business last month.  I was finally able to put it to use this past weekend; what a difference between my old telescoping pole saw and the product from ATSS!  I have only put together three of the four poles, but even with those three the reach is more than double my old saw and much more rigid.  The saw blade and lopper far exceed the quality of my previous saw.  I have no doubt that your product will pay for itself twice over just this year.  I had intended to give my old saw to a friend, but have since told him I'll be throwing it away and he should just borrow mine, or get his own saw from ATSS. Please add me to the list of your extremely satisfied customers! Best Regards, Ian B.
  15. Summer Tree Care Basics- Why Letting Some Tree Damage Stay Works
    It’s a little counter intuitive to suggest that summer tree damage could be a good thing. For most people, summer tree damage results in property destruction, power outages, headaches, messes, and a general pile of drama that no one wants. But, this leads the mind to an alternative, if you can swing it or stomach it, and it’s an alternative rooted in pretty sound logic. If you have a tree or two that experience some damage, even total toppling, and if you have enough property and are willing to do so, why not just leave the damage? Crazy, right? Maybe not. Read on!
    Trees are beacons for wildlife when alive. They provide shelter, food, a place to be, a place to stay cool, and a place to stay protected from predators. Trees alive are essential to large scale soil health- as live trees sometimes shed leaves or needles that improve soil, offer natural and beautiful mulch to smaller plants and shrubs below, have extensive root networks that provide soil stabilization and a place for underground fauna to thrive. They pull up trapped moisture from the ground and move it into the air as part of their photosynthetic system, moving the water cycle and moving air bound molecules throughout the environment. They provide oxygen for us to breathe and use our waste gas, carbon dioxide, to do so. Some trees make tasty treats like fruit, nuts, and sap for syrup. There isn’t a lot that trees don’t do that’s helpful when they’re alive. 
    Trees are also just as amazing when they’re dead. 
    Dead trees offer a myriad of resources to wildlife and therefore to people in their wakes. Trees that are dying or partially dead offer loads of food for birds and other wildlife. The cavities that form from dead standing wood provide priceless, rare nesting opportunities for not just rare birds, but other types of animals. Downed trees slowly decompose into the soil, and many soil bound organisms that are crucial to keeping soil healthy rely on dead trees for food- like fungi and bacteria. Wild insects use downed trees for nests, like valuable pollinating bees. Fallen trees over streams create new highways for crossings over these natural barriers. Downed trees that fall into rivers and streams change and deepen the flow of moving water as they acidify the water and break down, making healthy wetlands and streams for rare fish and other animals to thrive. The bodies of dead trees break down into soils and make food for new trees. The space opened up in a canopy of a fallen tree receives bright sunlight and opens the door for a new tree to take its place. In general, downed trees from summer storms are good and necessary things. 

    They might seem unsightly, but the good dead trees do in the long term can trump this societal consideration. In fact, people who leave downed trees when they can notice over time a remarkable increase in the health of the plants and soil in the area, and an increase in animal life. So, think twice before you remove your dead tree. You might need it where it landed more than you think.
  16. Summer Tree Care Basics
    Summer is usually a time when people have finished much of their trimming, cleaning, planting, pruning, and overall cleaning tasks that spring requires. They can enjoy the fruits of their labor and bask in their landscapes and how healthy they are. There are some things to remember about summer and your trees that will help your trees along, a lot of things that are overlooked by many and can lead to eventual disaster if not looked at and done properly. Here are some basic summer tree care tasks to keep in mind as your hot lazy days of summer progress. 
    Sometimes, you need to water your trees. This is especially true for young trees, or newly planted trees (yes, you can plant in summer if you’re willing to be good and liberal with the water!). Sometimes during hot and dry summers, many trees that have been planted suffer from stress- from heat, hot winds, and lack of protection. Keeping a good watering regime can help a tree along during times of heavy conditions. Some signs of stress include summer dormancy signs, such as leaf drop and twigs dropping. Usually before this however, you might notice some drooping in younger trees. You can water from above, but to properly water a tree it takes a very long time and a lot of water to get enough water into the root zone. Instead, think about installing an automatic drop system that drops water right into the soil around the drip line of the tree- not at the base of the trunk. The drip line of a tree is the furthest extent of its branches out- this is where the roots extend and do much of the water absorbing, since it’s where rain water can fall and be available, not stuck on the tree and it’s canopy. Some species of tree that might need help include paper birches planted in the south, swamp and white oaks planted in dry areas, and trees that usually feed from taproot that are evolved to have access to shallow ground water like pawpaw’s and such. 

    Generally, pruning in the summer for some trees, but most trees do better without summer pruning because the insects that bring with them or create internal damage on a tree enter a tree through a wound during this time of year, and wounding a tree in the summer will leave your tree very open to infection. Oak wilt, ash borer, Dutch elm disease, fire blight in malus species (apples etc.), and many other diseases are easily spread in the summer. Summer storms can harm trees during this time of year however, and weak and dying or dead wood are usually the first to come down in high winds and destroy property- which should be removed as soon as possible anytime. Protect open wounds from cuts in trees by sealing them with products designed for that purpose, tar, or wax.

    Avoid fertilizing this time of year, as nitrogen spurs on new growth that gets damaged in the winter. Too much new growth can be a bad thing, so it’s best to do all fertilizing in the fall and spring. 
    For exceptional Tree Pruning euipment visit: www.AmericanTreeServiceSupply.com

  17. Do you have trees in the yard that need pruning? Perhaps you have a branch that’s just to far to reach? If that’s the case, then you need a solid, high quality pole saw from ATSS to get the job done right.

    A pole saw is literally that, an elongated pole that comes in sections with a saw attachment on the end. You can adjust the length of your pole saw based on how many sections of the pole you attach. The pole saw is surprisingly easy to use, safe and lightweight as well. The versatility of the pole saw comes in very handy when you want to remove branches that are simply out of your reach. Here are a number of advantages that a pole saw encompasses for your work. 

    Adjustability: Since the pole itself comes in a number of sections, you can add on to each end another section until you find the right length. Plus, you can always maneuver around under the tree to assist in finding the right spot to do the sawing.
    Weight: While the saw portion of the pole saw is heavy enough to bear down on the limb or branch to do the work, the pole saw itself is surprisingly lightweight and versatile. You can easily maneuver it through the branches to reach the one that you want to trim.

    Quality: The pole saw itself is made from high quality metals that do not bend, buckle, twist or fall apart under pressure. Plus, the saw itself is made from tool steel and will not break with normal use. Having a high quality product like this means years of work will get done, saving you money.

    No Ladders: One of the most dangerous aspects of trimming trees for the non-professional is the using ladders to get at hard to reach branches. Ladders are not made for the uneven ground beneath trees. Furthermore, the ground itself can have soft spots that push one end of the ladder down into the earth, meaning that it tilts to one side and can cause you to fall off. Not to mention the branches themselves can cause your ladder to slip and you to fall. With a pole saw, you don’t have to worry about standing on a ladder as you can easily maneuver the saw where you want with no danger to yourself.
    Having a solid, high quality pole saw means you have a way to prune limbs and branches safely any time of the year. If you have trees, then you will need an 
    ATSS Pole Saw.

    The versatility of an ATSS pole saw comes in very handy when you want to remove branches that are simply out of your reach. Having a solid, high quality pole saw means you have a way to prune limbs and branches safely any time of the year.

  18. Why Crab-Apple Trees are Landscape Must Haves
    I suppose when you’re living in an area where you have choices, the poor crab-apple might not come as a first choice. After all, the fruit that crab-apples make isn’t easily palatable right off of the tree like a sweet cherry or a yellow plum (ah, fond memories) and they flower a lot like every other kind of tree does. Oh, and the lawnmower hates running over the fallen fruit of some of the smaller, harder fruited crab-apple varieties. So, why are crab-apples planted so much and why should you have them in your landscape? The realities will probably surprise you.
    Crab-apples are planted so often because once in a while, someone finally accepts how much of an amazing tree they can be. First of all, they’re easily managed in size and shape by regular pruning and purchasing varieties that adhere to size requirements, and the sheer plethora of mature size variation among crab-apple varieties is astounding. From very dwarf, to larger ornamental specimens, there’s lots of choice. Second, they really, really put on a show in the spring when they bloom. In the future, you may want to pay attention to your reactions to spring blooming trees as you pass them. Most of what you “ooh” and “ahh” at will be crab-apples. You can find blooming colors that range from white to deep pink, in single, double, and triploid bloom forms. Crab-apples bloom at a time when most other ornamental blooming trees are finished or haven’t begun to bloom yet, and they hold onto their display for a lot longer than other blooming trees. In leaf, their simple, pretty simplicity is wonderful. But the fruit is the most amazing. Completely edible, a lot of wildlife love to devour crab-apple fruit. Some of the larger fruiting varieties make apples that are absolutely beautiful in reds, bicolors, yellows, and pinks- and they taste good! Old timers used these crab-apples to make jams and jellies, and if you’ve never tried crab-apple jam or jelly, you should. It’s very good.

    And finally, crab-apples make a great pollinator for apple trees. In fact, many orchards rely on them for reliable pollination around their apples. They all work for all apples that need a second tree for pollination because apples tend to be resistant to their own pollen. But crab-apples themselves aren’t resistant to their own pollen, and are happy to share that pollen among apples of all kinds as well.
    Crab-apples are great additions to most landscapes and should always be considered as a flowering, ornamental choice. This is especially true for people living in colder zones where many of the cherries and stone fruit flowering trees aren’t hardy. They’re beautiful, useful, and a very welcome sight in the yards of many.
  19. Oak Wilt- When Is the Right Time to Say Goodbye to that Old Oak?

    Oak trees aren’t typically sold in nurseries because usually, they’re simply inherited. This is because they are so slow growing that the typical homeowner doesn’t bother with planting an oak in hopes of having a nice, large, old shade tree for the kids in five years. Oaks simply don’t grow that fast, and the immediate satisfaction of planting an oak makes them hard to market. But, if you own property with a large oak on it, you probably have formed some sort of emotional attachment to it. It’s understandable. Old oaks are such valuable staples in local micro-environments. Many animals depend on them. During the winter, their beautiful, gnarled form is charming. When they’re leafed, they’re a symbol of all that’s comforting from childhood days. Their acorns feed the wildlife. They also increase property values. But if you’ve noticed in the past year or two that your oak may have been affected by the dreaded oakwilt disease, you may have to start thinking about the inevitable. You’re going to have to cut that giant old oak tree down. But, depending on the type of oak you have, you might have some other options. You might not even have oakwilt at all.

    Oakwilt is a very characteristic disease. It’s fast acting on red oaks (killing entire trees in one season) and less fast acting on white or bur oaks (kills the entire tree in a couple of years). Because it’s caused by a fungus that infects the vascular system of the tree from an open wound or from spreading in root grafts from two trees underground, you will literally see the tree die from top to bottom and move across the entire tree in a vertical line as the disease progresses, since the vascular tissues run from top to bottom of the tree. A tree that is on its way out will look like it’s been split in two- one side of the tree will look fine, the other side will have foliage turning reddish and brown, and falling off.
    Many people who live in the eastern US and Texas are well aware of this disease and are quick to want a diagnosis if they see an oak of theirs struggling. And many times, companies that specialize in tree removal will diagnose a tree with oak wilt and remove it, playing on the safe side (but also taking the business for the sake of having business). There are times when a tree doesn’t have oak wilt, but could be struggling from a hot or dry several years. There are also many diseases that aren’t harmful in the long term that don’t spread from tree to tree, and therefore don’t require tree removal. If an old oak tree is dying and it doesn’t have oak wilt, consider leaving the tree. Dying and dead trees provide a very valuable service to natural lands, forests, and offer refuge and food for wildlife.

    Before you decide to remove that giant old oak tree, make sure you check and double check with reputable professionals who know the oakwilt disease to make sure your oak tree does in fact have oak wilt. If it does, make sure you hire a removal service that knows how and when to remove the infected trees so that the infection doesn’t spread. But make sure you know that your tree does have the disease and do everything you can to not spread it further.

    When pruning any tree with an ATSS Pole Saw be sure to disinfect the blade after each cut as disease spreads easily and quickly.
  20. When to Prune Willow, Elm, and Poplar Trees
    Willow trees in general are one tree that you can prune just about any time and just about anywhere. But like most trees, it’s usually best to prune when the tree is dormant, like in the winter. But with willows, it doesn’t really matter too terribly much. But why you prune and your intended results are what matter with willow, so here are some things to keep in mind about pruning willow:
    Remember that whatever branch you cut off of a willow, many more will take its place. 
    Think hard about what you want to achieve when you prune your willows. Aim for very basic of results- balancing out the weight of the tree, removing dead or diseased wood, or removing suckering sprouts. 
    Trying to prune a willow to achieve a specific shape outside of how it normally wants to grow isn’t a good idea. So, if you plant a willow, be ready to accept what you get and give it lots of room to do so.
    Elm trees need a lot of special consideration when it comes to pruning them because of Dutch elm disease. The only real good time to avoid the spore causing Dutch elm disease from entering vulnerable wounds is in the very early spring, In fact, lots of areas have laws regarding when you can prune elms, to help contain and avoid furthering the tree-destroying disease. How you prune elm trees is very similar to how to prune most other trees. Prune out old, dead wood, crossing and suckering branches, and other unsightly, unbalanced growth. Good pruning at the right time can actually help your elm fight off this disease down the road and recover from infections if it does get one by avoiding unnecessary and numerous accidental injuries at times when the tree could get infected. 

    Poplar trees do best when pruned in the late summer and autumn, because this helps discourage the suckering that poplars like to do when they receive an injury because they’re just entering dormancy and won’t put forth the energy to grow suckers.  When you prune poplars, take great care to approach cuts with an “easy-does-it” attitude. Avoid tearing bark as you prune, as poplars don’t appreciate the stripping and removal of their bark. To do this (especially when removing heavier branches), cut off the weight of the branch gradually before removing the entire branch. Do not cut an entire branch off all at once if you can help it. With that in mind, trim and prune poplars just like other trees with the same basic principals in mind- for balance and health. Regular pruning of these fast growing and wonderful trees will extend their life and create a mature specimen that many will envy. 
    In all cases, an ATSS 33 ft. Reach Pole Saw Pruner will get the job done with a professional results.
  21. When and How to Prune Palms and Conifers
    First and foremost, there is an established rumor that pruning palm trees encourages faster growth. This is wrong. It is not true. In fact, it’s very far from the truth. And here’s why.

    Palm trees are different from most trees- most notably in their basic structure. Palm trees are monocots. This means that their growth and overall structure is a lot different than most other trees, which are called dicots. On monocots like palms (and grasses and lilies for example), there are no numerous branched nodes of growth. You can’t cut off a large amount of a living structural element on a monocot and expect a new branch, stem, or leaf to grow from the node below your cut. No- once you make a cut, or injure a monocot like a palm, the effect is permanent and never heals well. To add to this, palm trees have a certain amount of fronds that they produce that suit that particular palm’s needs. Each individual species is unique to itself in this manner, and each tree relies on the exact amount of food produced by that exact amount of palm frond leaf material. If you cut off too many healthy fronds of a palm, the palm might be able to barely cope with the lack of food production it needs in time to produce replacement fronds, but the stress it puts on the palm leaves it open to weaknesses and illness. So, the only time you prune or trim a palm is if the frond is injured beyond help. And even then, trim sparingly.

    Conifers are generally another tree genre that doesn’t require a lot of pruning or trimming. Like palms, they don’t grow like most trees and don’t recover in the same way that most trees do after pruning. There are two main reasons to prune a conifer- for health (removing of old, dead, diseased growth) and for size control (which is avoidable by planting a conifer in an area that’s the right size for the area). However, they are more forgiving than palms and there are times when pruning can rejuvenate a conifer tree or bush. But when and how you prune heavily depends on the species of conifer. Here are some general rules of thumb for when and how to prune common conifers in the landscape:
    ·         Arborvitaes, Chamaecyparis, Junipers: Prune to keep their size in late spring and early summer with a good shear, and only remove new, fleshy, green growth to control size. If you go down to the old wood underneath, it won’t grow back. Carefully clip back with sharp shears or a hand pruner.
    ·         Hemlocks and Yews: Prune in the late winter or late summer when the tree is dormant. The tree will produce branching new growth if you trim this way when it comes out of dormancy, creating a bushier and fuller growth. Hand pruners work well for this task.
    ·         Pines: Cut off the candles in late spring to encourage bud formation for next year’s new growth.
    ·         Firs and Spruces: Trim in late winter or late summer when the tree is dormant. To control height, trim the leader about a half inch or so above a bud on the leader to encourage branching while controlling height.

    Some trees enjoy and actually do well with some neglect. Palms and conifers are two of those trees. Remember to start with a variety of each that will fit the space intended at full maturity, which will save you a lot of work down the road too. 

  22. The Best Time to Prune Common Landscape Trees

    Because of the specific growing habits and physiology of each individual species of tree, trimming and pruning them should also be done with care and heavy consideration for best results. There are lots of factors to consider before you prune. Here are several very common landscape tree species and a general breakdown of when and how to prune them that best suits their needs.

    Oaks: Oak trees have a very specific window of when you should NOT prune them, because of the disease oak wilt. The disease is caused by a fungus (Ceraticystis fagacearum) that is spread by a common type of beetle (Nitidulid beetles). These beetles are most active during the spring months, generally from February through May. Never prune oak tress during this time, because the open wounds caused by pruning sap over (a natural tree response to injury) which then attracts the insects and also provides an open easy access for the fungus to get inside the tree. The best time to prune oaks is during their dormant season when the beetles are least active, usually November through January. When you make a cut as you prune, cover the wound with a sealant that’s safe for the tree- like a warm wax, latex paint, or pitch specially made for sealing tree grafts and wounds. Pruning younger oaks is important to starting the tree properly. Pruning to keep an even shape that’s well balanced is most important for oak trees. As they age, pruning becomes more about removing dead and diseased wood than maintaining shape.

    Maples: Maples are pretty forgiving and don’t necessarily have any special considerations for pruning and trimming. The only exception is to avoid pruning maple trees in the early spring. Maple trees move their sap in heavy amounts in the spring, and if you make a cut to one during this time, the tree will bleed heavily. Continue on further into the spring as the tree is budding and growing new leaves- if you trim maples then, they won’t put as much energy into healing the wound as they put into growing their leaves, which could result in added disease. This also applies to when maples drop their leaves in the fall. Otherwise, maples can be trimmed just about any time. Summer and early winter are good times for different reasons, mostly so you can judge the aesthetics of your cuts. In the summer when the tree is fully leafed-out, you can trim and prune while judging the tree’s full leafed out form. In the winter, you can easily see crossing branches that need to be pruned, imbalances in form, and other basic structural issues without the leaves in the way. One different consideration all together is the silver maple. Silver maples sucker often and you can trim down these suckers at any time of year. 

  23. Early Spring Means Pruning Fruit Trees NOW
    Fruiting trees depend on proper pruning to keep them highly productive, healthy, and balanced. Good pruning helps extend the longevity of a tree, and helps avoid unnecessary injury during severe weather, and also helps prevent disease from forming in old and weakened tissues. It also improves the appearance of a tree. In some cases for example, old and healthy apple trees are some of the most beautiful tree specimens out there- not just for their flowering display in the spring and for their tasty fruit in the fall, but also for their gnarled and distinguished branching structure that becomes better with age. Yes, healthy fruit trees are not only giving with their delicious fruit, but also highly prized ornamentals if kept in peak condition. And again, this is achieved with proper early spring pruning.

    The reason early spring is the best time of year to prune fruit trees is because trees like apples produce flowers (and eventually fruit) on spurs located on old wood, or previous year’s growth. This isn't the past season’s green soft growth. It’s the barked over, woody growth from several years back that produce eventual fruit. Systematically clipping back new growth encourages the tree to put more energy into the spurs on the old wood, creating more flower buds, and therefore more fruit. You want to prune your tree after the deepest temperatures of winter have ended, but before they begin to flower in the spring. For most gardeners, this means the middle of February through most of March.

    There are lots of things to consider when pruning a fruit tree. The first thing to consider is making sure you have the right tools. A good pair of hand pruners is ideal for very small branches under 1 inch diameter. Anvil Loppers are good for thinker branches (max1 inch diameter) that are still fairly new and easy to cut.  For making cuts that are high off of the ground or up to 1-3/4 inch diameter, the safest tool to use is called a pole saw pruner lopper. This is a tree trimming saw and by-pass lopper designed for branches that are out of reach that need to be trimmed while safely standing on the ground. Another tool that you’ll need for larger branches that you can reach without the help of a ladder is called an ATSS tree saw. This is a specialized curved saw designed specifically for easily sawing down larger, thicker old wood that’s too thin for a chain saw, but too thick for a lopper tool. Clean tools are also essential, especially when working with multiple trees. Disinfect each tool as you move from tree to tree, just in case of possible infection.

    Generally speaking, when pruning a fruit tree you want to focus on trimming broken, diseased, and very old growth. Next, focus on branch crotches that are growing at weak angles (usually crotches with narrow angles). Trim out branches that are crossing other branches in strange angles. Trim suckering branches. Aim for a balanced tree with healthy growth that’s balanced and with plenty of old wood spurs for fruiting. Coupled with the right tools, this is an easy and enjoyable gardening task that anyone can accomplish, resulting in beautiful, healthy, and productive fruit trees.

    Check us out next week as we discuss best trimming practices for more specific tree types.
  24. This is Customer Satisfaction

    Hello, I was able to completely limb one 40 foot tree that afternoon without damaging either the our house or my wife's large tulip bed below the tree. By the way all of these trees are rooted in my neighbors yard but lean over the fence and are damaging my chimney and roof.  With that pole saw, I can do all the trimming necessary without stepping in my neighbors yard.  With all the limbs falling straight down into my yard, all the neighbor can do is fume. Police were parked in their cruiser at the property line to referee.  I think one of the policemen may order one of your pole saws. Thanks again, George S.
  25. Testimonial

    Greetings, There has been a long delay between my order arrival and a chance to use the system. I am delighted! I have been looking at the pruning systems offered in some of the catalogs I normally get but most of them had poles no longer than 12-15 feet. When I saw your system I knew it was what I needed. This weekend, I used the system to remove a 5" diameter black cherry branch about 20' up the trunk. I first cut off the small stuff with the lopper then finished the job with the pole saw. I only needed three pole sections (18') to reach the branch. All went well and I really like your system. Many thanks for a fine system and providing a good set of safety instructions. D Snyder
  26. A Users Comment

    "I received the saw/head yesterday and the poles today.  I have already removed some of the mistletoe from the highest reaches of a cottonwood tree.  It was great not having to use and old Corona fiberglass pole saw duct taped to assorted lengths of pipe and getting on a ladder.  You have made my life a lot easier and safer.  Great product and service, I thank you. 
    Happy Holidays." Jimmy Z. NM
  27. What Makes High Limb Saws the Right Trimming Tool
    Trees in your backyard can be beneficial, but even these things need to be maintained as well. Otherwise, the branches may stick out in places where they should not be such as wires or would even extend to your neighbor’s yard. To avoid such things, you need to properly care for them. In which case, it may be necessary to hire tree trimming companies. However, when handling a not so demanding pruning job, it may be much wiser to invest in a high reach limb saw. Now you can perform the task on your own.

    Why choose a high limb saw?

    There are many great choices when it comes to saws. This includes high limb saws which make pruning taller trees much easier. Using an ordinary chainsaw can get you in trouble. As you would know, there are certain hazards in its use. This is why you at least need to have the basic handling skills and know-how with these power tools so you can use them effectively and with utmost efficiency.
    If you are particularly dealing with tall trees in your backyard that constantly require trimming, it will be in your best interest to invest in a high limb saw. They are absolutely much easier to operate and would pose lesser risk. This is as compared to using a regular chainsaw and climbing up on a ladder. Who knows what may happen? Needless to say, it is hazardous.
    Operating a high limb saw proves not only a much safer way of cutting or trimming tall trees, it also works much more efficiently. Imagine how much time you can save from moving or climbing up and down a ladder. You simply do not have to do those to finish a job when you have a handy high limb saw. You can trim, cut and prune from the ground.

    How to choose a high limb saw?

    There are certainly a lot of benefits that come from using a manual limb saw rather than any other type of saw for your tree trimming activities. And there is no doubt on how effective and efficient it is in helping you out complete this trimming job. But the question is, how do you exactly choose the right one?
    You will soon find out that there are various sources where you can get trimming saws from. But in the same way as not all saws are created equal, not all providers are equal either. In other words, you have to be wise on how you choose your provider. Although there are a lot of varied sources, you should know how to tell the difference between a quality and a substandard one. If there is anything you should never compromise, it is the quality of the tool as it also determines great performance and durability.

    Aside from getting a limb saw, you also need to be concerned about getting a quality one. At ATSS we guarantee quality tree trimming tools and components. And these are the ones you should seek. Contact us for answers to your concerns or to order